Best of 2006: A Man’s Guide to Suits

(photo by Tandi)

This is a repost from September 2006

The way that a man feels in a suit is unparalleled.

The confidence that comes from a well fitted suit can help him feel taller, slimmer, more muscular and elegant all at the same time.

His appearance can change instantly under the cover of a quality suit, yet for all of its strengths most men can find the suit intimidating.

The number of selections, ranging from different textures, colors, cuts and of course fashion can make something so simple quite complicated.

But, with the right information you can learn and appreciate unique differences of each suit.

Alan Flusser who is the author of “Style and the Man” states,

Fabrics & Patterns attract the eye first, the most important piece to consider is the silhouette.

My experience as a salesman validates Mr. Flusser’s point, as I have seen many men drawn to the suits appearance rather than focusing on the fit.

Cuts & Fits

Typically the fit of a suit, i.e. “40R” is measured by the size of your chest.

You can measure yourself by running a measuring tape around the widest part of your chest. The measurement will give you a general idea of the suit sizes that will fit you. Arm length should also be taken into consideration. To accommodate these differences the suit size will reflect an S, R, or L after the size.

The S stands for short, which will fit a gentleman with short arms. The R will fit most regular arm lengths. There is about an inch difference between the S and the R. Finally, the L will fit the gentlemen with long arms. Keep in mind that the best guide for sizing is an experienced tailor or salesman.

Cuts: There are two general “cuts”; fitted and full.

Full cuts are more spacious and can accommodate the ample gentleman. Fitted cuts are suitable for a more athletic frame. Most men’s lines will carry a variety of cuts. It is important that you focus on finding a suit that will fit your frame whether full or fitted before choosing its texture and color.

One point to consider is the frame that the shoulders create for the body. If a suit’s shoulders are too big they will make the head appear small while small shoulders will make the gentleman’s face too big.

Be attentive and make sure that the shoulders on the suit appear natural.

Suit Jacket Styles

Most designers offer a variety of styles to the customer. Some current trends include shorter coat lengths, accented buttons, wide lapels, and modified gorges.

The most common choices in styles are single vent, double vent, and vent less jackets.

The vent is the slit at the lower end of the jacket. Each type carries its advantages, as you shall see:

Vent less: The vent less jacket is favored for its clean and slimming line. The jacket tends to hold a much cleaner silhouette around the body. Its only drawback is the inability to provide easy access to the pants pockets and a greater tendency to wrinkle when sitting.

Single Vent: The single vent was an American creation. Dating back to the era when men traveled on horseback, it provided the gentleman with the ability to avoid wrinkles while seated on the saddle. With those days long gone it has lost much of its appeal. A major drawback of the single vent is its ability to show a man’s buttocks when he reaches into his pant pockets. There are some men who will request the vent but most custom tailors especially those on Savile Row avoid it like the plague.

Double Vent: By far the best option, offering increased access into ones pants pockets. The vent allows the suit jacket to retain its form as the flap moves away as one is sitting or reaching into the pant pockets. As Mr. Flusser states;

It creates the illusion of height as the side vents move the observer’s eyes up from the bottom of the jacket.

Buttons

Like the fit of a suit and the preference of the vents, the choice in buttons is best left to personal taste. Currently, most men are wearing three button suits but with the fall season arriving there are more options in two and one button suits.

Three Button Suits: Offer the ability to shorten the torso; doing so you will see much less of the man’s chest. This style is favored by short men for its ability to elongate the body.

One Button/Two Button Suits: Both suits elongate the torso and shorten the leg line. Tall men prefer this style for its ability to shorten the leg line. Heavier men are able to elongate their torso with both of these suits.

Jacket, Collar & Sleeve Length

Normal rules dictate that the length of the jacket should line up with the thumb knuckle. Of course, you are free to decide the length that best suits your needs. As a rule the length should for the most part cover the man’s buttocks.

Collar & Sleeve: Both should be tailored to show at least ½” of the dress shirt. The tailor will adjust these areas accordingly. Mr. Flusser makes an important point on this topic;

90% of all men wear their coat sleeves too long.

To avoid facing this ordeal it is recommended that you wear a dress shirt that fits your arms well.

With these areas covered you will be assured that the final product will offer you a suit that you will enjoy for many years.

Mr. Oscar Schoeffler (former fashion editor for Esquire) makes a strong point about the power of one’s image;

Never underestimate the power of what you wear. After all, there is just a bit of you sticking out at the collar and cuff. The rest of what the world sees is what you drape on your frame.

Seasonal Fabrics & Trends

As a rule, the best investment is a lightweight virgin wool suit. It can be worn from summer to winter without the need to buy climate specific suits. There are several types of fabrics designed for specific climates and summer suits can be quite different than heavier winter suits.

Summer Suits: These are primarily made of material that will endure the sunny conditions. The most common are linen, cotton or linen/cotton blends. Both fabrics are natural and breathable, which can be handy on those high mercury days. Linen is the most cooling though it can wrinkle easily. There are also tropical wool suits that will help you stay cool. Stick with lighter colors during this season.

Winter Suits: Wool is king when it comes to winter. Wool is harvested from sheep, and it is held in esteem for its ability to handle the foulest weather. Because of the dead space between the wool fibers, air is unable to escape. The body’s heat is held inside and the cold air is kept at bay. Heavier wool suits are your best options for winter. It is recommended that you stick with browns and dark grays during this season. Brown is more common during fall, however it can be worn day-to-day during other seasons as well.

Thread Counts on a Suit

Most suits today will be “Super 100’s”. The number 100 reflects the amount of stitches per one inch of fabric. The number of stitches should be listed on the interior lining of the suit jacket. As the number of stitches increase so does the price of the suit, one of the highest and most luxurious counts is the Super 150. Wool that fine comes from sheep that have been kept in climate controlled sheds. Opera music is played to reduce their stress levels and produce wool so fine it rivals Cashmere. You can feel the difference in smoothness between a Super 100 and a Super 150. It is highly recommended that you refrain from wearing a Super 150 every day as its fine wool is so delicate that it can wear out.

Suit Trousers

Despite current fashion trends, the appropriate trousers for a suit should be pleated. Before WWII every suit produced had pleated trousers, but due to fabric shortages pleats lost appeal. Nowadays many suits come in both pleated and flat front trousers.

Flat front Trousers: Have a much cleaner appearance; it is also more fitted on the lower body. Be aware that flat front trousers should never have cuffed hems. Plain hems are appropriate.

Pleated Trousers: Allow the gentleman the ability to conceal the bulges resulting from the items in one’s pockets. The pleats also allow more hip room when sitting. Cuffed bottoms are dictated which give weight to the bottom of the hem.

Trouser breaks: The gentleman should be aware that he has the option of having his pants fall at a certain length on his shoes.

There are three types of trouser breaks:

Full Break: The bottom of the hem covers the heel of the shoe, this option keeps provides a much longer covering keeping the pants from exposing one’s socks when walking.

Medium Break: The bottom of the hem falls in the middle of the heel of the shoe. It provides less covering for the sock when walking but keeps the fabric further away from the floor.

No Break: The bottom of the hem falls almost at the top of the heel of the shoe. This style is reminiscent of Ivy League fashion and is known as “Madison Avenue”.

If in doubt ask your tailor which break will be best suited to your needs.

A suit is like wine, you must learn about it before you can actually enjoy it.

For more information on suits please visit:

So You Wanna : Buy a Suit
Men’s Style : Suits and Blaziers